Gemtree 2019 Shiraz McLaren Vale 750ml
Gemtree Wines is located in the idyllic McLaren Vale, South Australia, where vines were first planted in 1838, just two years after the region was settled by Europeans. Importantly over 70% of McLaren Vale's grape production is certified by Sustainable Australia Winegrowing. Gemtree is a wonderful family winery that converted to biodynamic farming long ago, before it was hip. Mike and Melissa Brown (she farms the grapes, he makes the wine) spent years learning the biodynamic ropes at a time when knowledge access was not easy, and the words ‘regenerative farming’ were on no-one’s lips. But Melissa, a third gen farmer wanted to work with nature and so started the journey, finally earning Demeter Biodynamic certification in 2007. The winery is adventurous and innovative, making a shiraz called Subterra, from a single barrel which is aged underground, buried in the earth beneath the vines. Gemtree Uncut is a lighter, fresher, juicier style of shiraz, a very self-conscious reaction against the jammy, heady, super-concentrated style that for many wine-lovers around the world was the first (if not only) style of Aussie shiraz that they came to know. Black pepper, dark fruits, orange oil, ripe tannins and streamlined acidity, it makes an uplifting dinner wine for classic roast leg of lamb, parmesan risotto topped with pan grilled wild mushrooms, or cheesy celeriac, leek & rosemary gratin.
-- DJ Kearney