Domaine Giroux 2021 Pouilly Fuisse 750ml

Sébastien Giroux runs this seven-hectare family estate above Fuissé, planted entirely to Chardonnay across three appellations, having taken over the domaine known as Yves Giroux & Fils in 2009 after a stint in motor racing — and quickly established himself among the Mâconnais names worth watching. The Pouilly-Fuissé blends two climats in the commune of Fuissé, Vers la Croix and Les Travers, sitting at 300 metres on full east exposure over deep, clay-dominant soils with modest limestone; vines date to the early 1960s and 1970s, farmed without chemical herbicides. Slow pressing, indigenous-yeast fermentation at low temperature and malolactic precede eleven months on fine lees, split evenly between stainless steel and 400-litre barrel.

The frost-shortened, cool 2021 vintage suits this house style. Pale gold; white flowers, citrus zest and orchard fruit lifted by ginger spice, with hazelnut and delicate leesy toast beneath. The palate is taut and linear, textural rather than fat, closing on a saline, mouthwatering finish that invites another glass. Drinking well now, with several years ahead.

Pairing: escargots, roast chicken, richer seafood, hard alpine cheeses.