Dagueneau 2022 Silex Pouilly-Fumé 750ml

The 2022 Silex is not a lot of fun upon release; dry and tense, it really needs time to mellow.  There’s flesh from the clay element of its clay-flint soils, which is felt on entry but tightens up as it moves through the mouth.  This remains a wine of drive, firmness and upright structure; it speaks of the place it comes from rather than its variety.  Aromatics are almost a forgotten element; this is a wine about structure and texture.  There is a lemony, wild goat cheese-like note and a distinct flinty whiff.  Silex, after all, means flint in French.

Score: 94 points -- Rebecca Gibb MW, Vinous, 2024