Bessin Tremblay 2023 Chablis "Valmur" Grand Cru 750ml

One of the late bloomers in bottle, as always, is the 2023 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur. The aromatic range is evocative of mirabelle plum, orange peel, fennel and oyster liquor. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied and concentrated, with a deep and crystalline core of fruit brimming with energy. Its incisive acidity and saline undertow frame a long, reverberating finish. If Fourchaume is expressive and giving, Valmur is elegantly reserved, and it will demand considerable patience before revealing its cards.

Score: 96 points -- Kristaps Kalkins, The Wine Advocate, 2026