Xurxo Alba's father, a bricklayer, planted Albariño beside the family home in Cambados and sold the wine unlabelled in a furancho — the Galician tavern tradition. Xurxo finished his oenological studies and started bottling in 2006; two decades on he is among the region's finest growers. The flagship is hand-harvested from small plots around Castrelo in O Salnés, granite soils within sight of the Atlantic, spontaneously fermented — rare here, where barely 2% of producers use native yeast — and raised six months on lees in tank with a fraction in neutral foudre. Citrus, white peach and sea spray; electric, saline, taut.
Pairing: oysters, pulpo a feira, razor clams, grilled sardines.