Bernard Baudry started with two hectares in the mid-1970s and, with son Matthieu, has mapped the estate's 32 hectares by soil type, bottling each as its own cuvée. Les Granges is the sand-and-gravel one: eight hectares of alluvial terrace beside the Vienne at Cravant, planted in the 1980s, farmed organically, with no clay to lend weight. Hand-harvested, wild-fermented in cement, roughly two weeks' maceration, seven to ten months in tank, no wood, bottled unfiltered with minimal sulphur. Bright ruby; crunchy red berry, cassis, violets, bell pepper and forest floor. Supple, fine-tannined, joyously drinkable.
Pairing: pork rillettes, roast chicken, charcuterie, grilled vegetables.