The Pioneer Vineyard was first planted in 1927 and is among Canada's oldest continuously producing sites; Den Dulik's 1983 planting of German Clone 93 Pinot Noir — never a great still-wine clone — turned out to be ideal for sparkling, and it's the backbone of this small-lot traditional-method cuvée. Estate-grown, hand-picked from a single block, harvested early to hold acidity, then bottle-fermented and aged on lees under David Paterson's direction. Lemon pith and green apple lead, with red-fruited depth beneath, fine autolytic brioche and stony minerality. Taut, energetic, finely beaded, bone-dry. Drinking well now; will reward cellaring.
Pairing: oysters, fried chicken, charcuterie, aged Comté