Marco Petterino farms just 2½ hectares, around 1,300 cases a year, but his parcels sit in three of Gattinara's finest crus — Permolone, Castelle and Guardie, all southwest-facing on ancient volcanic soils of granite, porphyry, quartz and iron that stain the earth red. Organically farmed and hand-harvested; native-yeast fermentation runs about fifteen days before three years in large 25-hectolitre botti. Petterino releases only when a wine is ready, often a decade after harvest. Classic Spanna: rose petal, sour cherry and wild berries over iron, anise and mountain minerality. Elegant, taut, gently austere, with a decade and more ahead.
Pairing: brasato al Gattinara, game, mushroom risotto, aged Toma.