Laureano Serres is one of natural wine's genuine founding figures in Spain — a former computer programmer who came home to Pinell de Brai in 1996, ran the Gaudí-school co-op cathedral there, then started Mendall in 1999 doing the opposite of what Catalonia's critics wanted. Since 2017 his work centres on Terme de Guiu, a limestone amphitheatre at 400 metres near Vilalba dels Arcs, swept by the garbinada sea wind. This is Macabeu off roughly 45-year-old vines: wild-fermented, no added sulphur, unfiltered. Rounded and creamy in texture, lightly oxidative, with citrus, orchard fruit and real volatile lift.
Pairing: rich food — roast chicken, aged cheese, mushroom dishes, fried seafood.