Champagne Domaine de Bichery 2018 En Val du Clos 750ml

Young couple Hannah and Raphael Piconnet took over his family's property in Neuville-sur-Seine, in the Côte des Bar, in 2015. The fruit all used to go to a Co.Op. They still sell some fruit, but of their own 10 organically farmed plots, they create single vintage brut nature cuvées, with no added SO2. This comes from their oldest and steepest vineyard, En Val du Clos, planted in the late 70s by Raphaël’s grandfather, Charles. The plot, and this cuvée is 20% chardonnay and 80% pinot noir, co-harvested and cofermented, in a mix of 60/40 barrel / stainless. After 5 years sur lattes, this was disgorged in March 2023. Light pencil shavings, toasted brioche, and raspberry coulis run throughout, with kisses of meringue and a fine, firm, lemon peel backbone. Quite a deep, smart wine, drinking beautifully now.

Score: 92 points -- Treve Ring, gismondionwine.com, 2024