Sourced from 14 ha of hand-harvested vines in both Kumeu (42%) and Hawke's Bay (58%) planted between 1989 and 2016. Spontaneous fermentation and 100% malo. 38% barrel fermentation in their old French oak barriques (at least five years old) and 62% fermented in tank. 32% bough-in grapes from Bridge Pa. Roughly 12,000 cases produced, about average (cf the small 2024 crop). Quite a portion from Hawke's Bay limestone. Transport in half-ton bins in their hired trucks. No refrigeration needed even over the seven-hour drive – so far. Today they have 30 ha of Kumeu Chardonnay, 6 ha of Kumeu Pinot Gris, 2 ha of Kumeu Pinot Noir (devoted to their Crémant), 11 ha of Hawke's Bay Chardonnay, 4 ha of Rays Road Pinot Noir and they buy in fruit from 4 ha of Hawke's Bay Chardonnay. Pale greenish straw. Real grip and zest and very much house style. Zesty citrus and mouth-filling even if not complex. Bone-dry finish.
Score: 16.5/20 -- Jancis Robinson, 2026
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The 2025 Kumeu River Village Chardonnay masterfully blends fruit from the cool clay soils of Auckland and the elevated limestone sites of Hawke's Bay . Earning a stellar 16.5 out of 20 from Jancis Robinson alongside a solid 90 out of 100 aggregate critic score, this vintage benefits from a highly intentional fermentation process split between neutral oak barrels and stainless steel tanks. This technique preserves the wine's vibrant core, delivering an aromatic burst of lively lime, lemon, and subtle white peach flavour. The significant contribution from the Rays Road vineyard imparts a distinctive flinty and mineral texture that drives a refreshingly crisp and cleansing finish. With its moderate alcohol level and bright acidity, this dynamic white is incredibly versatile. It serves as an exquisite standalone aperitif and pairs flawlessly with butter-poached shrimp, a vibrant goat cheese salad, or a rich chicken Kiev.