Thirty three year old pinot gris vines from two French clones are at the heart of this wine. Over the years, the wine has taken on more texture and complexity via the fermentation route that begins with indigenous yeast and then a mix of vessels: foudre, stainless, older French barrels, and puncheons. The wooded wines undergo regular bâttonage or lees stirring, while the stainless portion sits tight on its lees. Eventually, they are blended the following spring. The result is rich pear and lime pith with a lift of creamy lees and spicy baked apple in the finish. There’s a lot to like here, and you can do it with a wide selection of menu items from chicken and pork to seafood and vegetarian plates.
Score: 89 points -- Anthony Gismondi, Gismondi On Wine, July 2020