The nose on this NV Grandfather Rare Tawny (tasted in December 2024) leads with mejool date and blood orange rind, licorice, nutmeg and clove, dark chocolate, raisins and roasted walnuts. It is magnificent. On the palate, this is rich and oxidative, with endless layers of opulent fruit, nuts and spice, with warming spirit through the finish. Winemaker James Godfrey is hailed in Australia for his longstanding and unwavering skill with fortified wine production, and the sleek masterclass that is this wine is testament to that. The acidity is strict on the palate, and this serves to balance the wine through the seemingly endless finish. The drink date seems a little useless, as the wine will drink interminably if stored correctly. 19% alcohol, sealed under natural cork.
Score: 95 points -- Lisa Perrotti-Brown, The Wine Advocate, 2025