This iconic orange-hued wine steals hearts every year; it's one I look forward to tasting, and then stocking up on. The idiosyncratic hue show's the grape's gris side, and is the result of 36 hours on the skins in open tops fermenters before pressing for fermentation in old French barriques and two-tonne open top fermenters for a few months before being bottled with gentle filtration. Valencia orange, tangerine, apricot fuzz streams the length of this long wine, gripped on the sides by mineral salts and propelled with a grapefruit-laced acidity. There's a skim of lees cushioning the palate and a snapy orange citrus on the lengthy finish. Mouthwatering and welcoming now in youth, but with the structure to deepen with a few years' age (trust me). Once again, stock up.
Score: 92 points -- Treve Ring, Gismondi on Wine, April 2018