Martin's Lane 2019 Simes Vineyard Pinot Noir 750ml

Of all the Martin’s Lane pinots, Simes Vineyard is the darkest colour despite coming off a cooler, steep, north-facing vineyard in East Kelowna. The soils are granite-based over fine silt, situated only a few kilometres south of the 50°N mark. The northern aspect adds a rare distinction to this site that remains cool even as climate change is warming up the world. There are three blocks within the vineyard, and a mix of clones: 943, 667, 777, 114, and 115, but in 2019 only the 667 from two blocks made it to the finished wine. After a long slow maturation, the fruit was picked on September 21; it was natively fermented using 70 percent whole bunches for 32 days before spending 17 months in extra tight-grain Austrian oak. The cool site only serves to intensify its dark fruit. At the same time, winemaker Munn’s mastery of doing as little as possible at the crush pad and throughout the winemaking has yielded ultra-silky textures and terrific length. It will be interesting to see how this wine is received at Oregon’s International Pinot Noir Celebration this summer when Martin’s Lane takes the stage. This wine takes me to Central Otago and is one to cellar.

Score: 96 points -- Anthony Gismondi, gismondionwine.com, 2022