Martin’s Lane’s small-lot Rieslings from three diverse estate vineyards are well-defined, distinct and solid across the board, but my nod goes to Fritzi’s. The southeast-facing parcel sits at the foot of a dormant volcano and vines are now 25 years old. After giving it lots of air, this is awash with searing mineral strength. Exotically scented jasmine pokes through sunbaked gravel. Powerfully concentrated and tactile, it wraps up with a saline twist.
Score: 94 points -- Michaela Morris, Decanter, 2020