Domaine Henri Gouges 2006 Nuits-St.-Georges "Les Pruliers" 1er Cru 750ml

"Christian Gouges opines that this monopole site offers an especially favorable cross-section of the slope, its clay-rich lower portions promoting good acid retention and structure while The Gouges share of 2006 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Pruliers – like their Clos des Porrets St.-Georges – runs from the clay-rich bottom of this cru up to its stony top (where, notes Christian Gouges, working the vines is downright dangerous) – which may help account for its complexity. Ripe, rich cherry, plum and lingonberry retain lovely clarity to a wealth of somehow ore-like as well as chalky mineral nuances. Like the Porrets, this has abundant but fine tannins and comes off both dense and texturally silken. It finishes in a slightly cooler, more austere and overtly mineral vein, but with invigorating tartness and sheer refreshment that keep it enticing. I would however be only very slightly less-inclined to enjoy this young than I would other wines of this collection, while expecting it to perform well for the better part of a decade. 92 points"
 - David Schildknecht, Wine Advocate #186

To hear Christian Gouges tell – and, indeed, to taste the wines – there was nothing terribly problematic about 2006 or exceptional about his approach to it; he considers his (in the context of this vintage) relatively low finished alcohols of 12.5-13% ideal; and he says the wines all clarified beautifully without fining or filtration. I find the denser, more structured 2005s here are completely routed by the 2006s' charm offensive, though perhaps a return engagement half a dozen or more years from now will prove a fairer fight.

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