Domaine Henri Gouges 2006 Nuits-St.-Georges "Les Chenes Carteaux" 1er Cru 750ml

"Given the location of this parcel above Nuits's "grand cru" St.-Georges – which seems so favored in this vintage – the 2006 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Chenes Carteaux is mildly disappointing. Lacking the concentration of sweet fruit or textural allure that rendered other wines in this collection especially memorable, it features smoky black tea and pungently herbal accents to its low-toned black fruits, and finishes broadly and well, though without much finesse. It was impossible for me to rule out its having merely had a bad day on the occasion I tasted it, however I found the youthful 2005 similarly awkward, leading me to suspect this condition might lie in the longer term evolution of wine from this site. Certainly there is no reason to think it won't remain at the very least quite satisfying over the next 4-6 years. 89 points" -David Schildknecht, Wine Advocate # 186

To hear Christian Gouges tell – and, indeed, to taste the wines – there was nothing terribly problematic about 2006 or exceptional about his approach to it; he considers his (in the context of this vintage) relatively low finished alcohols of 12.5-13% ideal; and he says the wines all clarified beautifully without fining or filtration. I find the denser, more structured 2005s here are completely routed by the 2006s' charm offensive, though perhaps a return engagement half a dozen or more years from now will prove a fairer fight.