Checkmate 2018 Fool's Mate Chardonnay 750ml

The 2018 Fool’s Mate Chardonnay was aged for 16 months in a 77/23 mixture of French barriques (of which 41% were new) and a concrete egg. It comes in at 14.3% alcohol. This is the “big blend” Chardonnay from Jagged Rock, Border Vista, Sunset, Dekleva and Combret vineyards. The winery says that this bottling is “about winemaker influence in terms of impact of blending and the introduction of concrete….” Given the deft handling of wood and the resulting freshness, this has been one of my personal favorites of the winery’s Chardonnays. Those who appreciate understatement will gravitate to this. This is pretty fine again this year. There’s an initial hit of of new wood up front followed by more purity as it warms and airs out. It pulls the wood in easily. It’s fresh and lively, yet solid too. If you like them with more hazelnut and wood textures, you’ll have other choices. This wasn’t my favorite this year, but it was once again in contention. The qualitative differences are less than important than stylistic ones with this offering in any event. This should hold for a decade from now, maybe more. Drink now-2032. 

Score: 94 points -- Mark Squires, The Wine Advocate