Sperling 2011 Brut Sparkling 750ml

This unique sparkler is a pristine and floral pinot blanc of 22-year-old vines, from winemaker Ann Sperling's family estate, one settled by her ancestors 150 years ago. Many folks don't know that pinot blanc is one of the grapes allowed in Champagne, though rarely seen. Here it gets the chance to shine on its own, with tight, slightly pixelated acidity, lemon pith, pear, sweet fennel, and a squeeze of gooseberry. This spends 60 months on the lees, so there is an ample rasp of toast to the spiced finish. To offset the riffing acidity, 6.5 g/l dosage is added before corking, giving this a pleasant, barely felt padding. Lovely finesse and interest.

Score: 91 points -- Treve Ring, May 2018