Selbach Oster 2011 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spatlese 750ml

Issuing from riper material than informed the corresponding feinherb bottling, and raised half-each in tank and cask, the Selbach 2011 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spatlese features ripe apple and pink grapefruit allied to a nougat-like expression of far gone ripeness and (perhaps) a kiss of botrytis. Not especially focused or interactively complex, its fortes are soothing richness of texture and a lusciously long, unabashedly sweet finish. Further definition and interest may well emerge with time, but regardless, this will remain a seductive libation over the coming decade or two.

Picking for Riesling began chez Selbach in the first days of October and finished already on the 26th. “We harvested consistent with a principle on which I put ever-greater emphasis: to pick ripe, but not overripe,” remarks Johannes Selbach. “The luxury we had is that not only did the weather remain stable, but we did not have to deal with volatile acids or acetification” of grapes on the vine. Fruit was typically crushed for the dry wines, but not permitted skin contact, although Selbach emphasizes that his usual practice of encouraging relatively long stays on the fine lees for every style of Riesling he crafts was critical to donating structure, complexity, and a sense of stuffing to these products of a relatively low-acid, high-yielding vintage. Two T.B.A.s and a B.A. were still fermenting as of last autumn and will have to be assessed in connection with my vintage 2012 report.

Score: 90 points -- David Schildknecht, Robertparker.com, Apr 2013