The 2019 Fiano di Avellino Exultet pulls you close with a savory bouquet of almond-tinged pear and young peach lifted by hints of acacia, fresh mint and white smoke. It’s silky, nearly glycerol-like in feel, complemented by an opulent display of ripe stone fruits and spice, yet with a zesty twang of lime and a core of bright acidity to balance. This is rich, dense and structured, providing pleasure already through its balanced sweetness and characterful layers; yet today, we’re only seeing a glimpse of what’s to come. Hints of flint accentuate lingering notes of pear under an air of crushed rocks, as the 2019 Exultet tapers off with remarkable length. Simply spellbinding.
Score: 94 points -- Eric Guido, Vinous, 2021