Ample, broad and dramatic in scale, the 2014 Brut Spécial Club Chouilly Grand Cru shows just how well many wines turned out in a vintage that was not highly regarded at the time. Lemon confit, marzipan, chamomile and light pastry open effortlessly in the glass. The Chouilly is a big wine, but it remains translucent in feel, with plenty of cut driving through to the finish. Didier Gimonnet makes the Chouilly from the Montaigu lieu-dit, which has vines that he planted as far back as 1951. Readers won't want to miss this super-distinctive, substantial Champagne. Dosage is 4 grams per liter. Disgorged: October 14, 2019.
Score: 94 points -- Antonio Galloni, Vinous, 2020