Once labeled Chianti Colli Senesi (an appellation many producers in Montalcino use for vineyards that fall marginally outside DOC(G) boundaries), “Troncone” comes from vineyards at the highest point on the Ragnaie estate—a beautiful, south-facing amphitheater perched at 600+ meters. The fruit was hand-harvested and the wine spent two weeks macerating on its skins during fermentation, giving it a firm tannic structure that was polished up over the course of 12 months in large casks and six months in concrete vats before bottling. It is already singing a very high-pitched and harmonious tune. In the glass, it’s a deep garnet red moving to pink at the rim, with a perfumed nose of wild cherries, red currants, blood orange, bay leaves, rose petals, and dusty earth. It has a lithe, taut, medium-bodied structure that should broaden and soften over the next 3-5 years, but it is difficult (impossible, actually) to stay away from now.