(done entirely in demi-muids; Gon keeps more lees as this wine has a tendency toward reduction--and high acidity): ; keep more lees; always more reduced): Pale lemon-yellow with a green tinge. A note of white pepper reduction to the slightly high-toned aromas of lemon and lime. Then bright and tight in the mouth, showing a light phenolic edge to its citrus flavors. This rather masculine wine is more about power than finesse. Finishes brisk and persistent but a bit wound up in the early going. The pH here is around 3.0, with 4.6 grams of acidity.
Score: 88+ points -- Stephen Tanzer, Vinous, Oct 2017