Elio Grasso 2017 Dolcetto D'Alba "Dei Grassi" 750ml

Gianluca Grasso tells me he became as strict as an Italian police man, a Carabinieri, when it came to leaf pulling in 2017. Vines needed as much shade as they could get in this scorching hot vintage, so he did not allow for any leaves to be thinned. Fruit for the 2017 Dolcetto d'Alba dei Grassi matured rigorously in the shade during the whole summer season. For Gianluca, this was the key to maintaining fruity intensity and freshness in this difficult vintage. Indeed, this wine is void of the jammy sensations of fruit confit and marmalade that you might expect given the record heat.

Score: 89 points -- Monica Larner, Robertparker.com, Jun 2018