Dominique Laurent 2010 Beaune "Les Greves" 750ml
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Dominique Laurent 2010 Beaune "Les Greves" 750ml

$114.90 (Inc. Taxes)
$99.91 (Ex. Taxes)
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Laurent?s 2008 Pommard Les Charmots Vieilles Vignes from (allegedly) centenarian vines is scented and flavored prominently with confectionary calling-cards of new wood: vanilla, toasted coconut, cocoa powder, and caramel. Beneath those, though, emerge dark berries, soy, beef stock, and crushed stone. Finely-integrated tannins, concentrated fruit, and a long, soothing finish promise a wine worth following for a dozen or more years, but unlike the overwhelming majority of Laurent 2008s I tasted, this still needs to integrate its oak component, which of course might have happened even short term.

Dominique Laurent
Though Dominique Laurent now owns several vineyards, he made his mark innovatively: he developed relationships with many small growers throughout Burgundy. These were people working very old vines whose grapes, or newly made wines, were usually sold to large négociant houses, who would then blend them with those of other, lesser producers. Laurent offered these vintners more money for their special production, and he would advise them throughout the year on growing grapes of the finest quality. As a result, many of these folks decided not to grub up their old vines in favor of higher yielding modern clones of pinot noir. Laurent would then take over the élevage of each individual wine in his own cellars: a process that can take several years. Using his own custom-made barrels (?magic casks,? according to the best known French wine writer, Michel Bettane) and a set of old-school techniques ? Laurent is a student of historical writings about winemaking, and he has learned a great deal, he says, from several elderly Burgundian winemakers ? he fashions wines at all price levels of extraordinary richness, balance and complexity. Needless to say, his wines are made in a non-interventionist style: Laurent eschews the broad range of additives and technical manipulations that mark most New World wines.

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