Domaine Patrick Javillier 2006 Meursault "Cuvée Tête de Murger" 750ml
Javillier describes his '06s as wines with "ripeness at the limit." With natural alcohol levels between 13.5% and 13.8%, leaving the wines on their lees for the normal time span here might have accentuated their ripeness and resulted in heavy wines. He bottled the '06s in October of 2007, earlier than usual. I got the impression that the lower-alcohol, higher-acid 2007s are more Javillier's style, but he nonetheless believes that they will be "a bit under 2004 in quality." Interestingly, Javillier described the new set of wines as "like a mix of 1984 and 1990." The wines needed contact with the lees but not much batonnage, he told me, explaining that he found the lees slightly bitter. A couple of the wines finished with a hard edge at the end of May, but the best of them were quite refined.
Bright medium yellow. Subtle, complex aromas of orange, lemon, oatmeal and vanilla. Round, sweet and concentrated, with harmonious ripe acidity leavening the wine's substantial volume. Finer, deeper and more layered than the Charmes-and more nuanced too. Very Meursault, and not at all exotic. This has the structure of a red wine, finishing with notes of white pepper and minerals.
Score: 92 points
-- Stephen Tanzer, Vinous, Sept 2008