Domaine Cailbourdin 2018 Pouilly-Fume "Triptyque" 750ml

A very distinctive wine within the context of the portfolio, and indeed the appellation, as it is one of the more oak-influenced cuvées which really needs cellar time to show its best. The fruit comes from old vines on flinty soils on the hill of Sait-Andélain, another feature which sets it apart within the portfolio. After pressing the juice is vinified in 600-litre oask barrels, using less than 10% new oak, nevertheless I find to be quite apparent, at least in the wine's youth. The élevage includes a year on the lees, with batonnage. Aromatically this kicks off with incisive fruits, citrus-laced orchard and stone fruit, with a dried and lightly honeyed edge which comes from the oak, further bolstered by an overlay of smokey fennel and toast. Rich and bold on the palate, this has breadth through the middle, with a structure of oak phenolics and fresh acidity, but mouth-watering fruit too. A good vintage for Triptyque, and as per the norm one that demands cellaring.

Score: 94 points -- Chris Kissack, thewinedoctor.com