Domaine Cailbourdin 2019 Pouilly-Fume "Les Cris" 750ml

The mid-range cuvée, like Boisfleury this comes from vines planted on Portlandian limestone, but here the soils are much thinner. This certainly shows through in the character of the wine. A shimmering pale straw hue in the glass, this displays a beautiful minerality and bright citrus character on the nose, leaping from the bottle the moment the cork is pulled, and I find the same intensity of character in the glass. Here notes of smoky crushed limestone are swirled with lemon and orange citrus, lemon balm, white pepper, chamomile and mint tea. The structure feels cool, tense and taut but with a beautifully poised substance and texture, yielding to a pointed and pithy finish. Long and delightfully composed, this is a good example of why no terroir in Pouilly-Fumé should be underestimated or ignored. Top work.

Score: 94 points -- Chris Kissack, the winedoctor.com