The Château du Coing de Saint-Fiacre Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Comte de Saint-Hubert Vieilles Vignes 1996 comes from century-old vines in the grounds of the château, planted on a terroir of particularly friable gneiss lying very close to the waters of the Sèvre and the Maine, which meet within sight of the estate. Other than a day or two of skin contact in the press, commonplace in the Nantais with more serious cuvées made in good vintages, the vinification is very traditional, with élevage sur lie and bottling before the wine’s second winter. In the glass it has, considering its age, a remarkably fresh, pale and shimmering gold hue. The nose is just delicious, filled with the aromas of wet stone, bitter apricot skin, tangerine pith, smoke and struck flint. And this confident start is matched by a wonderfully textured palate, viscous and visceral, this voluminous texture swirling with the flavours of sweet citrus fruits and bitter pith, cut with bright acidity and tingling minerally elements. With time, the complexity shines through, the wine revealing nuances of apricot stone, aniseed, lemon balm and verbena. These savoury streaks rule the length, which remains fresh and bitter in equal parts. A superb wine.
-- The Wine Doctor, 2017