The 2018 Branco JP Azeitão is an unoaked and equal blend of Fernão Pires and Moscatel de Setúbal (Muscat of Alexandria), nicely dry and coming in at 13% alcohol. This is always one of my favorite bargains in the stable. Aromatic, fresh and perky, this has a little tension on the finish, those enlivening aromatics (no doubt from Moscatel), and a fresh finish. This is never a big wine, and it's not necessarily the best choice for a food pairing, but every year it is one I gravitate to for that freshness and the aromatic burst. To get a wine that I like this much into the USA at this price is quite an achievement. Just drink it as young as possible.
-- Mark Squires, The Wine Advocate, 2019