Argyros 2020 Atlantis White Assyrtiko Athiri Aidani 750ml

[2019 vintage] The 2019 Atlantis is the winery's screw capped blend, mostly Assyrtiko, with 5% each of Athiri and Aidani, unoaked, dry (2.9 of residual sugar and 6.33 of total acidity) and coming in at 13.5% alcohol. It doesn't seem like so long ago that this would be a typical Santorini—lower in alcohol, crisper and more reasonably priced. (We'll ignore the blending grapes for the moment.) These days, in terms of both ripeness and price, things have escalated. Still, in its style, this is a nice value, fresh, focused and somewhat tense on the finish. It's a bit austere and compact, without the flavor that more ripeness can bring, but the fruit is beautifully lifted on the finish. It's glorious in its youthful freshness, a great warm-weather refresher. That is what it aims for. It succeeds.

-- Marak Squires, The Wine Advocate, 2020