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Tuesday, April 14, 2009

Meo Camuzet Dinner


Meo Camuzet vertical of Nuits Saint Georges Murgers

On April 13th Jean Nicoals Meo, the proprietor of Meo Camuzet, paid his first visit to Vancouver for a dinner at the Five Sails restaurant. The dinner was a stunning display of Vancouver's culinary talent paired with one of Burgundy's thoughtful and respected producers.

Before I describe the wines I would like to mention the Five Sails Restaurant. Located in the Pan Pacific Hotel, the restaurant is run by the husband and wife team of Gerry Sayers and her husband and chef Ernst Dorfler. I have dealt a bit with Gerry in the past and I know Ernst by reputation only. I am somewhat sheepish, leading to being embarrassed to say this was the first time I had the opportunity to dine at their restaurant, a pity indeed.

I have eaten at most of Vancouver's top restaurants including some of the most recent arrived celebrity chef entries in the Vancouver market. I have to tell you the food and service at Five Sails is nothing less than spectacular. The dinner was superbly executed, the service spot on and the food brilliant. If you are entertaining an out of town guest the view is without a doubt the best in the city with nary a bad seat in the house, well worth the visit.

The pedigree of the wines was nothing short of pristine. They were imported directly from Meo Camuzet by Marquis Wine Cellars and sold to the Conferie over the years. The other wines to fill the holes in the tasting were supplied directly from the Meo Camuzet cellars.

2004 Meo Camuzet Nuits St. Georges aux Murgers
Lightly coloured, not as dark as the 2003, mineral notes on the nose, with a nice aromatic lift of dried underbrush notes, not overwhelming but pleasantly balanced and enticing. On the plate the wine has a nice angularity with the just right amount of fruit. A balance pretty wine.

2003 Meo Camuzet Nuits St. Georges aux Murgers
Deeply coloured, muscular yet refined and balanced, a deft hand is evident given the ripeness of the vintage. Densely coloured, black fruits on the nose which follow through on the palate, yet the wine has freshness of acidity and length, not over blown, a deft hand indeed.

2002 Meo Camuzet Nuits St. Georges aux Murgers
This was an interesting wine, a combination of 2004 and 2003. A pronounced gun flint nose, fruit compote, tight with a hint of soy Asian notes, with dried herbs on the finish.

2001 Meo Camuzet Nuits St. Georges aux Murgers
Initially the wine was hard to asses as the glass was not as clean as it should have been. The gun flint is also shows through giving the wine a unique and beautiful aromatic lift, a bit more muscular on the palate and a bit four square, soft black fruits with leather saddle notes, not as deep and structured as the first three wines.

1998 Meo Camuzet Nuits St. Georges aux Murgers
There is little sign of age in this wine, the gun flint note is quite strong coupled with a bit of salinity to it which lifts the wine, beneath there is dried herbs boned with an Asian soy note, long, crisp and savoury delicious, superb wine.

1999 Meo Camuzet Nuits St. Georges aux Murgers
Slightly darker in colour more, on the blackish end of the spectrum, red currant fruits on the nose, the gun flint not takes a secondary role in this wine as it is more in the back ground, the leathery saddle notes show through, not as angular as with more breadth to the wine, this wine still has a way to go as there is layers of fruit and hidden spice beneath the initial nosing.

2000 Meo Camuzet Nuits St. Georges aux Murgers
Lovely elegant nose, a myriad of baking spice, Christmas cake nose, mouth coating and pure there is a lifted spicy mineral note to the wine with hints of rose petal or rose water, brilliant.

1993 Meo Camuzet Nuits St. Georges aux Murgers
This wine was a bit difficult to taste as it had a wealth of sediment in it, I am not certain if I received the end of the bottle or not? A bit muddled in colour, not clear, a tightly wound wine. Closed with mineral under pinning's, still the wine had intrigue and flavour, a hint of green leaf, tight and long, another five years perhaps?

1995 Meo Camuzet Nuits St. Georges aux Murgers
A subtle elegant wine, with red fruits, not long, ready to drink 1996 Meo Camuzet Nuits St. Georges aux Murgers Still youthful, densely coloured and focused wine, this wine is still and baby and needs another 8 years to reveal what it has to offer, excellent.

A couple of special treats, The Cortons:

1990 Corton
A big year, quite hot, initially unforgiving and not generous at all in the glass, meaty savoury notes to the wine, the wine is still quite structured, intense and balanced, needs another six years or so

1993 Corton
This wine is more open and than the closed 1993, there is bold and dominant mixed red and black fruits on the wine, concentrated yet refined, with a mixed spice subois notes, starting to be have more secondary notes, classic iron fist in a velvet glove, five plus years

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Name: Marquis Wines
Location: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
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