FRANCE - February 2010
PARIS FEBRUARY 2010
I always seem to think of witty things to write when I am half asleep, dreaming at three in the morning, or while imbibing in a good bottle of wine with friends. This is when a blank sheet of paper (my brain) is ripe with ideas, but when I wake up they all seem to disappear! No wonder some writers go mad.
I have had the great fortune to visit Paris countless times, thirty years ago on my own, and since married, with my wife. This time was different. I had my two teenage children with me. Firstly, my daughter who is a high maintenance fashion diva (whom I can’t afford!), and then my son who is a pretty easy guy to be and travel with.
We arrived in Paris at 7 p.m. on Tuesday and took the train into the city and walked to my usual hotel, the Hotel des Grands Ecoles on Rue Cardinal Lemoine in the 5th. A quiet spot not far from the hustle and bustle of Paris, you can actually get a good night’s sleep. The hotel is always busy, so book your room well in advance. Avoid rooms 2, 3 & 4 on the ground floor, since they are right by the reception and lobby. The comings and goings early in the morning are plainly heard; rooms 3 & 4 are right by the elevator shaft, which sounds like someone with bad gas when it arrives on the ground floor. My advice is to get the larger rooms across the courtyard, or at the very least on the upper floors. One word of advice – be prepared for the wallpaper in the rooms!
Our plan was to have dinner and a smart bottle of wine and get ourselves sufficiently tired and a bit tipsy (the adults that is) to somehow avoid jet lag.
I typically avoid all hotel breakfasts as no matter how good they are I can only exist on so many croissants (or white flour products). My favorite haunt is a little diner called “Breakfast in America” on Rue Grand Ecoles, a short walk from the hotel.
An American Film maker was living in Paris, and while he loved the city, he missed a classic North American place for breakfast. After two years of searching he found his spot and opened his doors in 2003. I am big breakfast person, I know what homemade is and this is the real deal- great pancakes, farm fresh eggs, and fresh squeezed OJ (this keeps me going until lunch).
The latest scam on the street by the local hucksters, took me by surprise, just for a second, and then I realized what was going on. The four of us were walking across the Quai to cross the Seine and head towards Notre Dame Cathedral. Out of nowhere, a fellow walked up beside us, bent over and picked up a gold ring off the street and asked my wife if it was hers.
When he showed us that flashy piece of crap I realized what he was doing. I shook my head, said No and kept on walking. My children turned around and watched him walk down the street repeating the same routine.
On the right Bank, two clueless tourists were being shown the exact same ring by an older lady, and as we walked by the scene I told them it was a scam. The street huckster was furious, she swore at me, made various gestures with her hands and was in for a fight. I was carrying a large umbrella, imitated my best fighting stance, grimaced and stared her down which seemed to work.
SHOPPING
Paris is full of great shopping which may produce results, but if you attack the City with a plan, knowing what you want to do and where you want to go you - will be dutifully rewarded.
Shoes
There are only three companies left who still hand make their shoes in France, Weston, Repetto and Paraboots. This is something the new generation seems to forget- hand made products, crafted by passionate artisans. Yes they are expensive, but you will be rewarded with comfort and longevity. http://www.paraboot.com/
However, if you’re merely into the here and now and don’t want your shoes to last forever, visit Galeries Layfayette (women’s’ downstairs, men upstairs), where there are enough shoes on display to keep you looking (or waiting) for hours…….as well, the washrooms are delightful!
Shirts
JLR
I hate giving away my secrets, but I’m not greedy. On Rue 28 St. Sulphice, there is a small store called JLR, where they make custom shirts. On display are samples of fabric, buttons, cuffs cuts, thread colors, button holes and shirt samples for you to try on. Shirts are truly made to measure for 91 Euros. Each attentive staff member measures you up and records your details on a card. The shirts take about two weeks to make and they can be mailed to you, but the price is dear at 90 Euros. If you are in France for more than two weeks hit them on your first day and they will have them ready for you when you leave the country. The quality is outstanding. Your records are kept on file so you can order them before your next visit.
http://www.jlrparis.com/index.wait.php
Cotton Doux
If you cannot wait for your custom shirts to be made, another great store with ready made shirts (both ladies’ and mens’) in a fabulous array of designs and colors. The quality is good, the fabrics fun. Slim fit and traditional, with different cuff styles too. There are various locations around Paris; my favorite store is in the 4th, the Marais District.
http://cotondoux.fr/
RESTAURANTS
Honestly, what is Paris without the dining experience? One could spend the rest of their life visiting local bars, brasserie and such. Here are some of the places I like to visit when I am in Paris:
Willis Wine Bar
This is one of my perennial favorites, always a stop on my stay over in Paris and it never seems to disappoint. The wine list is excellent, the food is fresh, well presented and the service is always attentive and informative.
http://www.williswinebar.com/
Fish la Boissonnerie
Owned by American Janu Sanchez, this bustling bistro has creative food. This visit, we arrived early without a reservation, (not recommended) but we were seated and soon after the restaurant filled up, and people were turned away at the door. The bread is fresh, baked across the street in his bakery and carried over (try doing that in Vancouver). La Boissonerie is a cozy, intimate lively place, and worth the visit. Note, I had emailed them for reservations and no one got back to me (first time) so we just showed up.
69 Rue de Seine Tel: 1 43 54 34 69
Brasserie Balzar
The first night we arrived we walked to Balzar only to find it packed. We walked to another non-descript restaurant not worth writing about. Reservations were wisely made the next day at Balzar. I first ate there in the mid 80’s and enjoyed my meal. These were the days of smoked filled restaurants and poor service. I am pleased to say it has changed little. The walls seemed tarnished with years of smoke, great 50’s period art pieces, black-tied waiters, scurrying around the room gruffly taking orders – I love it.
Room is tight, and seating is compact but that adds to the ambiance. Food is good and the service, albeit curt, is efficient – worth a visit or two.
http://www.brasseriebalzar.com/
Atelier Maitre Albert – Guy Savoy
I am not a writer by profession, as I am sure you can tell! I find it hard to describe the restaurant. Firstly there is the classic French exterior, then the aroma of a wood fired rotisserie which sets you at ease as soon as you open the front door. The modern look of the restaurant ties in perfectly with the age of the building, the old fireplace is still there, as are the walls, the perfect balance between old and new. The menu is smart and well chosen. I was excited to go back to the restaurant and we arrived a day early for our reservation, not a problem, they easily accommodated us, not in the section of the restaurant I wanted but who cares, the food was fresh, service good and the wine list decent, but a tad pricey for what the quality of the wines.
http://www.ateliermaitrealbert.com/
I always seem to think of witty things to write when I am half asleep, dreaming at three in the morning, or while imbibing in a good bottle of wine with friends. This is when a blank sheet of paper (my brain) is ripe with ideas, but when I wake up they all seem to disappear! No wonder some writers go mad.
I have had the great fortune to visit Paris countless times, thirty years ago on my own, and since married, with my wife. This time was different. I had my two teenage children with me. Firstly, my daughter who is a high maintenance fashion diva (whom I can’t afford!), and then my son who is a pretty easy guy to be and travel with.
We arrived in Paris at 7 p.m. on Tuesday and took the train into the city and walked to my usual hotel, the Hotel des Grands Ecoles on Rue Cardinal Lemoine in the 5th. A quiet spot not far from the hustle and bustle of Paris, you can actually get a good night’s sleep. The hotel is always busy, so book your room well in advance. Avoid rooms 2, 3 & 4 on the ground floor, since they are right by the reception and lobby. The comings and goings early in the morning are plainly heard; rooms 3 & 4 are right by the elevator shaft, which sounds like someone with bad gas when it arrives on the ground floor. My advice is to get the larger rooms across the courtyard, or at the very least on the upper floors. One word of advice – be prepared for the wallpaper in the rooms!
Our plan was to have dinner and a smart bottle of wine and get ourselves sufficiently tired and a bit tipsy (the adults that is) to somehow avoid jet lag.
I typically avoid all hotel breakfasts as no matter how good they are I can only exist on so many croissants (or white flour products). My favorite haunt is a little diner called “Breakfast in America” on Rue Grand Ecoles, a short walk from the hotel.
An American Film maker was living in Paris, and while he loved the city, he missed a classic North American place for breakfast. After two years of searching he found his spot and opened his doors in 2003. I am big breakfast person, I know what homemade is and this is the real deal- great pancakes, farm fresh eggs, and fresh squeezed OJ (this keeps me going until lunch).
The latest scam on the street by the local hucksters, took me by surprise, just for a second, and then I realized what was going on. The four of us were walking across the Quai to cross the Seine and head towards Notre Dame Cathedral. Out of nowhere, a fellow walked up beside us, bent over and picked up a gold ring off the street and asked my wife if it was hers.
When he showed us that flashy piece of crap I realized what he was doing. I shook my head, said No and kept on walking. My children turned around and watched him walk down the street repeating the same routine.
On the right Bank, two clueless tourists were being shown the exact same ring by an older lady, and as we walked by the scene I told them it was a scam. The street huckster was furious, she swore at me, made various gestures with her hands and was in for a fight. I was carrying a large umbrella, imitated my best fighting stance, grimaced and stared her down which seemed to work.
SHOPPING
Paris is full of great shopping which may produce results, but if you attack the City with a plan, knowing what you want to do and where you want to go you - will be dutifully rewarded.
Shoes
There are only three companies left who still hand make their shoes in France, Weston, Repetto and Paraboots. This is something the new generation seems to forget- hand made products, crafted by passionate artisans. Yes they are expensive, but you will be rewarded with comfort and longevity. http://www.paraboot.com/
However, if you’re merely into the here and now and don’t want your shoes to last forever, visit Galeries Layfayette (women’s’ downstairs, men upstairs), where there are enough shoes on display to keep you looking (or waiting) for hours…….as well, the washrooms are delightful!
Shirts
JLR
I hate giving away my secrets, but I’m not greedy. On Rue 28 St. Sulphice, there is a small store called JLR, where they make custom shirts. On display are samples of fabric, buttons, cuffs cuts, thread colors, button holes and shirt samples for you to try on. Shirts are truly made to measure for 91 Euros. Each attentive staff member measures you up and records your details on a card. The shirts take about two weeks to make and they can be mailed to you, but the price is dear at 90 Euros. If you are in France for more than two weeks hit them on your first day and they will have them ready for you when you leave the country. The quality is outstanding. Your records are kept on file so you can order them before your next visit.
http://www.jlrparis.com/index.wait.php
Cotton Doux
If you cannot wait for your custom shirts to be made, another great store with ready made shirts (both ladies’ and mens’) in a fabulous array of designs and colors. The quality is good, the fabrics fun. Slim fit and traditional, with different cuff styles too. There are various locations around Paris; my favorite store is in the 4th, the Marais District.
http://cotondoux.fr/
RESTAURANTS
Honestly, what is Paris without the dining experience? One could spend the rest of their life visiting local bars, brasserie and such. Here are some of the places I like to visit when I am in Paris:
Willis Wine Bar
This is one of my perennial favorites, always a stop on my stay over in Paris and it never seems to disappoint. The wine list is excellent, the food is fresh, well presented and the service is always attentive and informative.
http://www.williswinebar.com/
Fish la Boissonnerie
Owned by American Janu Sanchez, this bustling bistro has creative food. This visit, we arrived early without a reservation, (not recommended) but we were seated and soon after the restaurant filled up, and people were turned away at the door. The bread is fresh, baked across the street in his bakery and carried over (try doing that in Vancouver). La Boissonerie is a cozy, intimate lively place, and worth the visit. Note, I had emailed them for reservations and no one got back to me (first time) so we just showed up.
69 Rue de Seine Tel: 1 43 54 34 69
Brasserie Balzar
The first night we arrived we walked to Balzar only to find it packed. We walked to another non-descript restaurant not worth writing about. Reservations were wisely made the next day at Balzar. I first ate there in the mid 80’s and enjoyed my meal. These were the days of smoked filled restaurants and poor service. I am pleased to say it has changed little. The walls seemed tarnished with years of smoke, great 50’s period art pieces, black-tied waiters, scurrying around the room gruffly taking orders – I love it.
Room is tight, and seating is compact but that adds to the ambiance. Food is good and the service, albeit curt, is efficient – worth a visit or two.
http://www.brasseriebalzar.com/
Atelier Maitre Albert – Guy Savoy
I am not a writer by profession, as I am sure you can tell! I find it hard to describe the restaurant. Firstly there is the classic French exterior, then the aroma of a wood fired rotisserie which sets you at ease as soon as you open the front door. The modern look of the restaurant ties in perfectly with the age of the building, the old fireplace is still there, as are the walls, the perfect balance between old and new. The menu is smart and well chosen. I was excited to go back to the restaurant and we arrived a day early for our reservation, not a problem, they easily accommodated us, not in the section of the restaurant I wanted but who cares, the food was fresh, service good and the wine list decent, but a tad pricey for what the quality of the wines.
http://www.ateliermaitrealbert.com/
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