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"The Clair 2006 Vosne-Romanee Les Champs Perdrix – from 60 year old vines above La Tache, and picked at the end of the harvest – is alluringly scented with star anise, cardamom, and charred red meat; brimming with cassis and black cherry on a palpably dense, finely-tannic, and superbly concentrated palate; and finishes with penetration, spice, peppery pungency, and the persistence of admirably ripe dark berries. This should we worth permitting a couple of years rest before re-opening, and should merit following for 6-8. 90 points"
- David Schildknecht, Wine Advocate #186
Bruno Clair and cellar master Philippe Brun have a battery of 1,500 liter upright fermentation casks as well as larger ovals, which permit more wines to depart small barrels sooner but not have to go into tanks. And in 2006 (or for that matter 2007), they concurred that preservation of fruit and preventing the wood from drying it out were paramount considerations. (In fact, the Marsannay cuvees were still not yet bottled when I last tasted them in the Spring of 2008.) Picking here, by the way, lasted from September 23 through October 4, and the results certainly speak emphatically for themselves.
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